A couple of years ago, I saw a Halloween garden display that immediately caught my eye. It featured lit-up wooden pumpkin boxes, and I thought it was simple, whimsical, and cute. And of course, I instantly wondered if I could make something similar.
So, I decided to create my own version of outdoor Halloween pumpkin boxes for the garden. If you’re looking for a fun DIY project to make your house feel festive for Halloween, these wooden pumpkin boxes are straightforward to make, though they do take some time. Here’s how I put mine together and how you can create your own version at home.
MATERIALS
| MATERIALS NEEDED | TOOLS NEEDED |
| Wood (see cut list below) | Table Saw (optional) |
| Black Paint | Circular Saw |
| Wood Glue | Sandpaper or Sander |
| Landscaping Lights (set of 6) | Clamps |
| Wood Filler | Paint Roller Handle |
| Wooden Knobs | Paint Rolls |
| 6 Garden Stakes (about 3′ x 1″ x 1″) | Paint Tray |
| Primer | Pencil |
| Orange Paint | Drill & Drill Bits |
| Green Paint | Jig Saw |
| 2½-inch screws | Air Compressor & Nail Gun |
| Quick-Setting Epoxy | Bi-Metal Hole Saw Bit |
| Machine Screws (if the screws that come with your wooden knobs aren’t long enough) | Ruler |
| Mini Craft Mirrors | Craft Paintbrush |
| Silicone Caulk | Screwdriver |
| Electrical Tape | Seam Gauge |
| Zipties |
CUT LIST
| 12 – 18″ x 6″ boards (cut from 1/2″ plywood) |
| 12 – 12″ x 6″ boards (cut from 1/2″ plywood) |
| 24 – 7.5″ x 7.5″ boards (cut from 1/2″ plywood) |
| 6 – 3″ high triangles (cut from 2×4) – optional: see steps 14 & 15 |
STEP BY STEP
STEP 1 – CUT THE WOOD
First, cut all the wood pieces you’ll need for your outdoor Halloween wooden pumpkin boxes. See the cut list above for the specifics. If you’re working with a fresh piece of plywood, use a table saw to cut the plywood into 6″ and 7.5″ strips, then cut those strips down to the 18″, 12″, and 7.5″ lengths using a circular saw.
Don’t have a table saw? No problem! You can make all the cuts with a circular saw. You can also ask your local home improvement store whether they offer plywood-cutting services when you buy your materials.
STEP 2 – SAND THE WOOD
After you’ve cut all the pieces, sand everything. I highly recommend a sander, as this will make the process much faster, but sandpaper will work too.
STEP 3 – GLUE SMALL SQUARES
I made all six wooden pumpkin boxes using 1/2″ thick plywood. However, I wanted the tops and bottoms to be a little thicker and sturdier, so I glued two small squares together to make each one.
Start by pairing up the 24 (7.5″ x 7.5″) small squares. Apply wood glue to one face of each pair, with the rough sides facing inward toward each other. This will give you 12 thicker squares in total.
Once you’ve glued the pairs together, clamp the pieces securely and allow the glue to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You can clamp multiple pairs at once to speed up the process, as long as each pair is held firmly together.
STEP 4 – PAINT THE INSIDES
While the glued squares are drying, use a paint roller handle with a paint roller (and paint tray) to paint the rough side of the remaining wooden pumpkin box pieces black or another dark color.
I used leftover dark gray paint from a previous project, but I’d recommend black if you’re purchasing paint specifically for this project. The dark interior helps conceal the inside of the boxes and gives the pumpkins a more finished look when lit.
Allow the paint to dry completely before moving on to the next step.
STEP 5 – DRAW THE PUMPKIN FACES
Once the black paint has dried, choose three 12-inch pieces and three 18-inch pieces for the pumpkin faces. I picked the smoothest pieces with the fewest dents or dings for the fronts.
Using a pencil, sketch a different jack-o’-lantern face onto each piece. I placed my designs near the top of the boards, but you can position yours wherever you like. Keep the faces far enough away from the edges to leave a sturdy border. This will help prevent the narrow sections around the cutouts from becoming fragile.
Have fun with this step and get creative with your designs!
STEP 6 – CUT OUT THE FACES
Once you’ve drawn all six pumpkin faces, it’s time to cut them out.
Secure each board firmly to something stable, such as a workbench, using clamps. Then, use a drill to make a starter hole inside each enclosed area you want to remove, such as the eyes and mouth. Make sure the hole is large enough for your jig saw blade to fit through.
Insert the jig saw blade into the starter hole and carefully cut along your pencil lines. Take your time around curves and corners to keep the shapes as clean as possible.
Don’t worry if the plywood chips a little along the edges. Small imperfections can give your Halloween pumpkins more character!
STEP 7 – ASSEMBLE THE WOODEN PUMPKIN BOXES
After cutting out the faces for all six pumpkins, it’s time to assemble the boxes. Arrange the four pieces into a square, with the pumpkin face positioned on the front. To keep the boxes square, position the left edge of each wood piece against the back face of the adjacent piece’s right. If this is done right, it means that each side of the pumpkin box will only have one seam.
Then glue the pieces together using wood glue.
Use a nail gun to secure the joints while the glue dries, placing nails approximately every 4–6 inches along the edges. Keep the nails positioned safely away from the edges to avoid splitting the plywood.
Repeat this process for the remaining five boxes. Allow the glue to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions before moving on to the next step.
Looking for more DIY scrap wood projects? Check out the following:
How to Build Cornhole Boards
How to Build a Rolling Scrap Wood Cart
STEP 8 – DRILL HOLES FOR THE LIGHTS
Once the boxes have dried and the glue has fully cured, drill a hole in the back for the landscaping lights (set of 6).
Measure the diameter of the light head. If you’re using the same landscaping lights as I am, it’s 1 ¾ inch. Then use a bi-metal hole saw bit that’s the same size to cut the hole. Because it’s a drill bit, the hole will be slightly larger than the bit, making the hole big enough to fit the light. If you’re using different lights, measure yours before choosing the hole saw.
Turn the pumpkin box around so the back faces you. Measure across the back panel from side to side with a ruler and mark the center. Position the hole low enough that there will be approximately 1 inch of wood between the bottom edge of the box and the bottom of the hole.
To help prevent the plywood from splintering as the hole saw bit exits the back, clamp a piece of scrap wood firmly underneath against the back panel. Secure the pumpkin box on a stable work surface, then drill the hole carefully until the hole is completely cut through the back.
Repeat the drilling process for all six boxes.
STEP 9 – WOOD FILLER & SAND
Now that all six boxes have light holes, the next step is to fill any gaps and nail holes.
Use wood filler to fill the nail gun holes, seams, and any other cracks or imperfections you’d like to smooth out. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and drying time.
Once the wood filler is completely dry, sand the patched areas smooth using sandpaper. You can also sand any rough edges around the pumpkin faces and other areas that need a little extra attention.
STEP 10 – PRIME & PAINT
It’s now time to prime and paint the 6 wooden pumpkin boxes, 12 wooden square tops and bottoms, the 6 garden stakes (about 3′ x 1″ x 1″), and the 6 top wooden knobs.
Before painting, tape a piece of cardboard or paper inside the wooden pumpkin boxes to prevent paint from dripping onto the dark interior.
Start by priming the pumpkin boxes. Make sure to use a primer made for exterior use. I used a small craft paintbrush to reach the inside edges of the face cutouts, then a roller to cover the larger surfaces.
Next, prime the wooden top and bottom squares, the garden stakes, and the wooden knobs. Once one side of each piece has dried, flip it over and prime the other side.
Allow the primer to dry for the time specified on the product label.
Once the primer is dry, paint the pumpkin boxes and the top and bottom squares orange.
And paint the garden stakes and wooden knobs green.
Allow all the paint to dry completely before assembling the pieces.
STEP 11 – ATTACH THE GARDEN STAKES TO THE WOODEN SQUARE BOTTOM PIECES
Once the paint has dried, it’s time to attach the six garden stakes to the six orange wooden bottom squares.
Start by marking the center of each orange square. To find the center, use a ruler to measure from opposite corners, and make a small mark with a pencil in the center. Then repeat with the other pair of corners. Mark the point where the two lines intersect with a small X.
Repeat this process on the top of each garden stake.
Pre-drill a hole through the center of each orange square and one into the top of the corresponding stake. The hole in the stake should be deep enough to accommodate the length of the screw. I used 2½-inch screws.
Choose a drill bit appropriate for the screw and the material you’re drilling. For a pilot hole, the bit should be slightly smaller than the screw’s diameter.
Next, use a drill to drive the screw through the hole in the orange square from the top, stopping when the tip just begins to protrude from the underside. Now it’s ready to be attached to the garden stake.
For extra strength, I added a small amount of two-part epoxy to the top of the garden stake before joining the pieces. I used JB ClearWeld Quick-Setting Epoxy. Mix and apply the epoxy according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Align the orange square with the top of the stake, then use a drill to drive the screw into the stake until the two pieces are firmly joined.
Repeat the process for all six garden stakes, and allow the epoxy to cure according to the product instructions.
STEP 12 – ATTACH THE KNOBS TO THE WOODEN SQUARE TOPS
While the epoxy on the stakes is curing, attach the green wooden knobs to the remaining six orange squares. These will become the wooden pumpkin boxes tops.
Find the center of each square using the same corner-to-corner method from Step 11, then mark the center with an X.
Drill a hole through the center of each square, using a drill bit that matches the screw and knob hardware. The knobs I used (the ones that are linked) required a 5/32-inch hole.
The screws that came with my knobs weren’t long enough, so I purchased M4-0.70 × 35 mm machine screws instead. If you’re using the same knobs, check that the replacement screws fit the threads and are long enough to secure the knob through the thickness of your wood.
After you’ve drilled the hole, insert the screw through the hole from the underside of the orange square and attach the knob on the top. You may need a screwdriver to keep the screw from turning while you tighten the knob.
Tighten until secure, but don’t overtighten.
Repeat for all six pumpkin tops.
STEP 13 – ATTACH THE BOTTOM OF THE WOODEN PUMPKIN BOXES
Now it’s time to attach the bottom of each pumpkin box.
Turn the pumpkin box upside down so the bottom faces up (this means the pumpkin face will be upside down). Prepare your two-part epoxy, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I used JB ClearWeld Quick-Setting Epoxy, which has a short working time, so make sure you have everything ready before mixing.
Apply a thin bead of epoxy along the edges of the box, then place an orange bottom square on top. Use a seam gauge to check the overhang around the edges and adjust the square until it’s centered.
Once the bottom square is centered, secure it with a nail gun while the epoxy cures.
To position the nails accurately, use the seam gauge underneath the ledge to measure the distance between the edge of the box and the edge of the bottom square.
Then take that gauge measurement and transfer it to the top of the pumpkin so you can identify where the box’s side walls sit underneath. Where the edge of the gauge lies is the edge of the pumpkin box. Therefore, you want to line up the nail gun with the edge of the gauge.
Drive 1–2 nails along each side, aiming into the underlying box walls. Repeat the process for all six pumpkins, then allow the epoxy to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I left mine overnight to ensure the joints were secure.
STEP 14 – ADD INTERNAL MIRRORS (OPTIONAL)
If you’d like the light to reflect farther up the back of the pumpkin, you can add mini craft mirrors inside each box. This makes the pumpkin appear more illuminated.
Start by cutting six triangular pieces, about 3-4 inches high, from a 2×4. Check out the photo below to see the size.
Remove the protective backing from the adhesive on the back of a mirror (but keep the protective sheet on the front of the mirror for now). Add a small dab of silicone caulk to the mirror‘s back, then position it along the upper edge of one triangle.
Attach a second mirror below the first one, following the same process.
Repeat the process for all 6 triangles. Allow the silicone caulk to cure fully before installing the mirror assemblies inside the wooden pumpkin boxes. Follow the curing time specified on the product label; although silicone may become touch-dry within a few hours, full curing can take 24 hours.
The mirrors are optional, so you can skip Steps 14 and 15 entirely if you prefer not to add them.
STEP 15 – INSTALL THE INTERNAL MIRRORS (OPTIONAL)
Once the silicone caulk has fully cured, attach the mirror assemblies inside the wooden pumpkin boxes.
Pre-drill a hole through the bottom of each pumpkin box, positioning it in front of the garden stake and on the side closest to the pumpkin face.
Place a mirror assembly triangle inside the pumpkin box, with the bottom of the triangle resting against the bottom panel and the mirrors facing toward the light opening in the back. Center the assembly along the inside of the pumpkin face, as shown in the photo below.
Drive a screw up through the bottom of the box (using the hole you pre-drilled) and into the wooden triangle to secure it. I used the same 2½-inch screws that I used for attaching the garden stake.
Repeat for all six pumpkins. Once the mirrors have been attached, don’t forget to remove the protective film from the front of each mirror.
STEP 16 – ATTACH THE TOP OF THE WOODEN PUMPKIN BOXES
Once the mirrors are all set, it’s time to put the top on the pumpkin. Set the pumpkin upright so you can access the top. I placed the pumpkin at the top of our ladder so that the stake had room to hang down, while the pumpkin itself was still supported.
Attach the top using the same process you followed in Step 13 for the bottom. Prepare the epoxy, according to the manufacturer’s instructions, apply epoxy along the edges of the box, and center the orange square using your seam gauge.
Once satisfied with the position of the top, secure the pieces together while they dry with a nail gun. Refer to Step 13 for help positioning the nail gun using the seam gauge.
Place 1-2 nails on each side of the box. Then repeat for all six pumpkins.
Allow the epoxy to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I left mine overnight to make sure everything was secure.
STEP 17 – PREPARE THE LANDSCAPING LIGHTS
Once the wooden pumpkin boxes are assembled, it’s time to prep the landscaping lights. If you bought the same lights as I did, you’ll want to remove the stake bracket from the lights by removing the screws on each side, using a screwdriver.
If you bought the same landscaping lights as I did, and used the same bi-metal hole saw bit to cut the hole, then the lights should fit easily in the back of the pumpkin. But in order to make them fit just a little bit tighter, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the light head, just about 1 layer worth. This makes the fit into the hole tighter, and helps reduce light escaping around the opening.
STEP 18 – ATTACH THE LIGHTS TO THE WOODEN PUMPKIN BOXES
It’s now time for the final step, attaching the landscaping lights! Insert each light head into the opening at the back of its wooden pumpkin box, adjusting it until it fits securely.
Once all six lights are installed, turn them on and check that the faces are illuminated as expected. If needed, adjust the light position to get the look you want. Once satisfied, ziptie the light cords to the garden stakes to clean the cords up and help the lights stay in position.
NOTE: I placed the wooden pumpkin boxes into the bushes before adding the lights, to make setting them up easier. I plan to remove the lights each year as well, to make storing them easier.
That’s it! Your outdoor wooden pumpkin boxes are ready to add some whimsy to your Halloween display.
Looking for more DIY projects? Check out the following:
How to Paint a Ceramic Garden Pot
How to Reupholster a Dining Room Chair
