A few months ago I decided our living room needed a facelift, but many spaces in our home are a higher priority to fix up so we weren’t in the market for new furniture just yet. Therefore, I decided to work with the couches and end tables we already owned and bring some life into the room with some quick decor touches. However, after adding a new rug, pillows, and throws to the room, it became clear that we needed to do something about the TV stand area. It no longer matched the room, and the stand itself was too small for the TV.
However, I didn’t want to rush out and buy a new TV stand because, with future furniture purchases incoming, I’m not sure what the actual vision and final outcome will be for this room. Therefore I didn’t want to spend the money on buying something expensive we may get rid of in a couple of years. Plus where’s the fun in that? So, I once again decided to work with what I had and set off to convert the Ikea Kallax unit we already owned into a TV stand.
MATERIALS
| MATERIALS NEEDED | TOOLS |
|---|---|
| Wood (See Cut List Below) | Circular Saw |
| Kallax Shelf | Iron |
| Baskets | Box Cutter |
| Edge Banding | Drill & Drill Bits |
| Legs | Clamps |
| Hinges | Foam Brush |
| Handle | Allen Wrench |
| Liquid Nails | Flathead Screwdriver |
| 1″ Screws | Sandpaper or Sander |
| Stain | Level |
| Caulk Gun |
CUT LIST
| 1/2″ Plywood – 62″x19″ – TOP |
| 1/2″ Plywood – 27″x15″ – SHELF |
| 1/2″ Plywood – 27.5″x8″ – FRONT |
TIME COMMITMENT
| ACTIVE TIME: 5-6 hours, spread over a few days |
| TOTAL TIME: About 4-5 days with all the drying times necessary for the stains and glue |
STEP BY STEP
STEP 1 – REMOVE THE TOP & MIDDLE SHELF OF THE KALLAX UNIT
The first step in converting a Kallax unit to a TV stand is to position the shelf so that the long sides become the top and bottom, and all the shelf dividers run perpendicular to the floor. Then remove the top piece and the middle shelf.
To remove the top, use an Allen wrench to loosen the two bolts on each side of the unit. Make sure to keep track of these bolts so that you can reinstall the top at the end.
Then loosen the top from the inside shelves by using a flathead screwdriver on each of the cam lock screws. Lift up to remove the top piece, and set it aside.
After removing the top, you’ll want to remove the middle shelf. Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the cam lock screws on the bottom of the middle shelf and remove it.
STEP 2 – CUT THE WOOD
Now that the middle shelf has been removed, use the circular saw to cut it in half. Then take one of those halves and cut it in half again. These two pieces will be used for the shelf support.
Once you’ve cut the shelf supports, it’s time to cut the plywood for the rest of the TV stand. The top will need to be 62″ x 19″, the shelf is 27″ x 15″, and the front is 27.5″ x 8″.
STEP 3 – STAIN THE PLYWOOD & LEGS
After cutting the wood, it’s time to stain it. You’ll want to stain the top, the shelf, the front, and the legs. I think it’s best to stain the plywood pieces before adding the edge banding so you don’t have to worry about the stain bleeding over the edge. The color stain I used was Bombay Mahagony by Minwax because I thought it best matched the colors already in our living room, but you can use any color you’d like.
Follow the directions on the can for sanding the wood and applying the stain. Then wait the appropriate amount of time, according to the can, between coats. I chose to do two coats on the wood, but you might want to do three depending on how rich you want the color.
After the stain coats have dried, apply a polyurethane protective coat over the boards and legs, once again following the directions on the can. Then wait for the appropriate time before proceeding to the next step.
NOTE: I only stained the front sides of the boards and left the back bare. That said, if you want your unit to look more complete, I recommend painting the backs of the pieces during this step. I say paint rather than stain because the backside of plywood is often too rough for the stain to absorb well, but you could try to stain it if you’d like.
STEP 4 – ATTACH THE EDGE BANDING
Now it’s time to add the edge banding to all the plywood pieces. Start with one edge of the plywood piece that will be the front. Roll out the banding to the length of the edge you’re working with, add a couple of extra inches for good measure, and then cut it. This way you don’t have to work with the entire roll of edge banding while attaching it to the wood.
The edge banding has a heat melt adhesive pre-applied to the back. So when heated, the adhesive will melt and become sticky, then cool and stay in place.
To attach it, hold the banding taught, in place, and then iron over it with a heated iron. I applied the band in sections about 5-10 inches at a time, working down the board as I went. After heating a section of the band, adjust it to line up with the board’s edge, then firmly press down. I found using a sanded scrap piece of wood allowed me to apply pressure uniformly across the band. Wait for the adhesive to cool a bit so the section is sticking, then carry on to the next section.
I found the edge banding to be very easy to work with. Once heated, there’s some time to adjust the band to the exact spot you want before the adhesive cools and sticks. If the band still ends up in the wrong spot, you can easily reheat the adhesive and try again.
Once the edge banding has been applied to the full length of the board’s side, trim off the excess sides with a utility knife.
Repeat the edge banding process on all four sides of all three stained plywood pieces.
STEP 5 – STAIN THE EDGE BANDING
After attaching the edge banding, it’s time to stain it so it matches the wood. Using a foam brush, apply the stain to the banding, being very careful so it doesn’t bleed onto the front side of the plywood that was stained earlier.
Follow the directions on the can, and wait the appropriate amount of time between coats. Repeat the staining process to apply as many coats as you desire.
After the stain has dried, apply a polyurethane protective coat over the edge banding. Then play the waiting game again for the appropriate amount of time, according to the can, before proceeding to the next step.
STEP 6 – ATTACH THE FRONT WITH HINGES
Now for the fun part! It’s time to start assembling the TV stand. The first piece to assemble is the front. This will be your smallest piece of stained plywood. You will be attaching it to the Kallax unit with hinges.
Flip the front piece over and attach the hinges to the backside at the bottom left and right, a couple of inches in from each side. Attach the hinges using a drill and the screws that came with the hinges.
Next, lay the Kallax unit on its back and center the front piece between the two shelf dividers. Then line up the hinges along the bottom edge of the Kallax unit so the screw holes are centered. Make sure that the front piece is straight by checking that it’s an equal distance away from the bottom on each side.
Now attach the hinges to the Kallax unit using the screws that came with the hinges.
STEP 7 – ATTACH THE SHELF
After the front piece is attached, the next part to assemble on the TV stand is the shelf. Grab the shelf support pieces, the shelf itself, and some clamps. The diagram shows where these pieces should end up after following the process below.
Keeping the front piece closed and working from the backside of the unit, place one shelf support piece on the left side, and then put the shelf on top of the support piece. While these pieces are loose, position them so the top of the shelf lines up flush with the top edge of the front piece. Then clamp the left side support down in the back, allowing the shelf to rest on top of it.
Now repeat the process with the right-side shelf support piece. When it is completed your shelf should be resting on the support pieces.
Once both sides are clamped down, double-check that the shelf and the top edge of the front piece line up flush. Also, check if the shelf is level. If not, adjust the left and right side clamps until everything is flush and level.
Once that has been achieved, carefully remove the shelf being sure not to bump the support placements, and attach the side supports to the shelf dividers using 1” screws. Then remove the clamps.
The next step is to attach the shelf. Load the caulk gun with liquid nails and spread the liquid nails along the top edge of the shelf supports. Then set the shelf down on top of the supports. Make sure that the left and right front edges of the shelf are flush with the front of the unit. When satisfied with the position of the shelf, clamp the shelf down at the front and back.
Tip: Use a small piece of scrap plywood between the clamp and the wood to avoid denting the wood with the clamp.
Wait 24 hours for the glue to set before proceeding to the next step. Then remove the clamps.
STEP 8 – ADD THE HANDLE
Once the glue has dried for the shelf, it’s time to attach the handle to the front piece. Lay the unit on its back so the front piece is facing up. Position the handle on the front piece where you think it looks best.
Double-check that it’s centered by measuring from the left and right, and adjust it as needed. Then double-check that it’s even by measuring the distance from the top on the left and right side. Once you’re satisfied with the handle’s location, mark the screw-hole locations.
Then, drill a hole on each mark. The handle I used needed a 1/4” drill bit, but the size bit you need will depend on the handle you’re using. Place a washer on the screw and then put the screw through the hole from the back. Thread the screw into the handle and screw it in. Repeat for both screws. Then return the unit to the upright position.
STEP 9 – ATTACH THE TOP
Now the big one, it’s time to attach the plywood top. Before you begin this process you’ll need to reattach the Kallax top that you set aside back in step one. Line up the long piece with the two dividers remaining on the unit and ease it down, ensuring the metal rods from the dividers land in the proper holes. Install the two bolts removed in step one on each side with an Allen wrench. Then use a flathead screwdriver on each of the cam locks for the dividers to tighten everything back down.
Now it’s time to attach the plywood top. Place the plywood on top of the unit and adjust until the plywood is centered.
Mark the underside of the plywood at each of the four corners so you know where to line it up again. Remove the plywood.
Load the caulk gun with liquid nails and spread it over the top of the unit.
Place the plywood back on top of the unit and center it according to the marks you made earlier. Clamp the top down and wait 24 hours for the glue to set. Then remove the clamps.
STEP 10 – ATTACH THE LEGS
After the glue for the top has set, the final step is to attach the legs.
Flip the unit upside down. Then mark the four corners where you want the legs to go. Using a ½” drill bit, drill a hole in each corner on the marks.
Then insert the plate into the hole and screw it onto the cabinet using the provided screws.
After all four plates are attached, grab a leg and screw the threaded bolt into the plate. Repeat for all four legs.
The legs also come with protective pads. Attach these to the bottom of all four legs, if desired.
Once all four legs are attached, return the unit to its upright position.
Add a basket on the left and right side, and congratulations! You now have a beautiful converted TV stand!
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